St. Petersburg, City of
the Tsars
By Nancy Norris
St. Petersburg, Russia,
the center of Russia’s political, cultural and
intellectual life since its inception, has emerged from
revolutions, civil war, political purges and territorial
sieges as one of the most evocative and hauntingly
magnificent cities in the Baltic. Characteristic of
those of us who grew up with a stereotypical view of
this once communist state, I was totally unprepared for
the truly awesome beauty and pure magnificence of St.
Petersburg on my first visit a few years ago. In fact,
so enthralled was I with its rich architecture and
cultural heritage, that I returned twice more to
discover the true essence of the city and its people.
Created by Emperor Peter
the Great in 1703 as his “window in Europe”, his imprint
is still visible at every turn. Add to that the
architectural and artistic influences of Catherine the
Great, and the city is a European showplace resplendent
with palaces, cathedrals, monuments, imperial squares
and residences for the nobility. This northernmost major
city in the world, with its palace lined waterways is
known as the “Venice of the North”. St. Petersburg,
comprised of 44 islands formed by the Neva River and 90
other rivers and placid canals is connected by 539
bridges. The Neva River traverses the city, dissecting
it into a panorama of geometric elegance. Planned as the
“main street of the city” by Peter the Great, residents
and tourists alike find themselves enraptured by the
city’s splendor as they stroll along the walkways that
line the granite-clad embankments of the Neva River.
Neva River Walk
Of the aforementioned
bridges, 308 are located downtown and 22 of them are
drawbridges. This is significant, as it is one
explanation for the lively nightlife that is enjoyed in
St. Petersburg. To accommodate ship traffic, from May to
October the drawbridges are raised daily from
approximately 2-5 AM. Since these bridges are the only
way to get from one side of St. Petersburg to the other,
it is not uncommon for people to get trapped on the
wrong side of the river late at night. Now, what better
reason could there be for late night revelers to
continue to enjoy the energetic ambiance of the evening?
Of course, a natural phenomenon known as “White Nights”
may also contribute to the vibrancy. St. Petersburg is
so far north that the sun does not descend below the
horizon enough for the sky to grow dark following the
summer solstice. Endless twilights cast a unique spell
on the city and the streets are lively, friendly,
romantic and bustling with people.
Its attractions, moods and
people are a mesmeric vortex of life’s extremes, and my
much too short visits allowed me to experience only a
glimpse of the riches of this city in transition.
Volumes could be written on the treasures to explore in
St. Petersburg, but let me whet your appetite by sharing
the most memorable highlights of my whirlwind tours.
Peter and Paul Fortress was the first structure built in
St. Petersburg and the first major tourist attraction I
visited. Situated on an island of its own on the Neva
River, it is like a city within the city. Designed to
protect against Swedish attacks, this monument of
military and engineering excellence has become an emblem
of the city and is the burial place of Peter the Great
and other Russian tsars.
St. Isaac’s Cathedral
Impressive cathedrals of
all denominations are found scattered throughout the
city and none is larger than St. Isaac’s Cathedral. Able
to accommodate an audience of 10,000, it is graced with
solid granite columns, hundreds of reliefs and bronze
sculptures. Its gilded dome of pure gold glistens in the
sunlight and dominates the skyline of St. Petersburg.
None less notable is The Church of the Savior on Spilled
Blood. This ornately spectacular church built on the
spot where Emperor Alexander II was assassinated, was
almost completely destroyed by the ravages of war and
the Siege of Leningrad. Exorbitant funds were spent on a
restoration project that began in 1970. Re-opening in
1997, the extravagant collection of 7500 square meters
of mosaics attracts thousands of visitors. The Kazan
Cathedral in the heart of the city encircles a small
square with a double row of striking columns. This
impressive colonnade was modeled after St. Peter’s
Basilica in Rome and was erected to hold the ancient
icon of Our Lady of Kazan.
Church on Spilled Blood
Boasting of 255 museums,
the world renowned Hermitage is the most famous. With
over 3 million works of art on exhibit, enormous does
not begin to describe the 400+ rooms that occupy 6
buildings along the Neva River. Once the Russian Winter
Palace, the fine architectural detail and opulent beauty
of the museum is enough to marvel at alone, but don’t
miss the Rembrandts, two Leonardo Madonnas or the Gold
Room in the Treasure Galley with no less than 1500 works
made from gold. From the Stone Age to the Twentieth
Century, the Hermitage captures the essence of world
culture.
Palaces, palaces, palaces:
While there are over 150 to explore, Peter the Great’s
palace and park ensemble of Peterhof is the most
impressive. This jewel of Russia used to be an exquisite
summer residence of Russian tsars. The graceful façade
of the gilded domed Grand Palace stretches along a
terrace that sits amidst an enormous landscaped park,
adorned with elaborate fountains, imposing statues and
immaculate gardens. The park’s unique fountain system is
the largest in the world, earning it the title of the
“Russian Versailles”.
Peterhof
All this and we haven’t
explored shopping along Nevsky Prospekt, visiting
Catherine’s Palace with its exquisite Amber Room,
admiring The Bronze Horseman, a monument to the founder
of St. Petersburg, while strolling through Senate
Square, experiencing the nightlife, being entranced by
the Russian ballet at the opulent Mariinsky Theater,
dining on fine caviar and sipping perfectly chilled
vodka. Not to mention being moved to tears at the
sobering space inside the broken ring lit with gas
torches of the Monument of the Heroic Defenders of
Leningrad. Yes, there is much more to St. Petersburg
than I had ever imagined. Far surpassing any
expectations, it is an exotic destination that is
intoxicating and will surely captivate all who visit.
Catherine’s Palace
