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Sorrento, Italy Port Reviews
Capri and Anacapri On Your Own Shore Excursion
By Jeannine Cantine


A DAY OF EXPLORING ON CAPRI

 

Lots of choices for exploring from Sorrento for the day - Amalfi Coast - Pompeii - Herculaneum - Ischia - Capri and of course Sorrento. Since Azamara Quest is a small ship, we could tender in from Sorrento instead of docking in Naples as the larger ships do.

We wake up to a glorious day - sunny, calm, 65 degree weather. We're on our way to Capri. We tender in at 9AM. Already there are long lines to purchase ferry tickets.....It's Sunday....We had hoped to take the slow boat to Capri - 1 hour for 9.80 euros at 9:20AM. It's already sold out, so we settle for the 20 minute hydrofoil for 14.50 Euros. TIP...buy a round trip ticket - no discount - but you don't have to wait in line again in Capri. The ferries run almost every hour.

Hawkers are selling their tours while we wait in line, on board the hydrofoil and again as you arrive in Capri. We prefer to go on our own, at our own pace. I read extensively and prepared for excursions prior to cruising. As we arrive in Capri, we notice hoards of day visitors on Capri - long lines everywhere - our time is limited, so we succumb to a tour offered by "Jerry" - 20 Euros per person. Basically the same itinerary that we had planned and it is limited to 20 people.

 

We loved Capri - the appearance of the island as you approach masks it's hidden charm - a charm that was enjoyed by Pontiffs and Emperors centuries ago - the island is now a hideaway for the wealthy. We board a minibus for a 10 minute ride to Anacapri - the highest village on the island. The narrow curvy road makes for an adventure. Buses scrape their rear view mirrors, taxis careen on down and mopeds squeeze in between it all .... Sit on the side opposite the bus driver if you're not afraid of heights - the views are spectacular and the precipitous drop-off is "guarded" by a three foot high flimsy rail.

We're dropped off at the piazzetta in Anacapri - A money exchange with no service fee is right there - a few cafes, a small complex with expensive shops and a chairlift to the top of the island. Public toilets are accessed by walking through the Armani store....Leave the center and walk along the narrow uneven stone streets - lots more small shops selling clothing, shoes, leather good, perfumes, candy and their famous "Limoncello" a lemon infused vodka liqueur. From these side streets, you can access museums, small hotels and villas, and if you have the energy, even climb to the top rather than taking the chairlift. Plan on about 1 1/2 hours or so before heading down to Capri.

We decided to take the chairlift - 8 Euros - this was not included in the tour. Being skiers, we're not too excited but are doing it since we are in Capri for the first time......this is a very old one-person chair, but it does have a safety bar......It's a twelve minute ride to the top. We're wonderfully surprised....the view is spectacular.....we're suspended over homes, gardens, terraced fields growing grapes, limes, kiwis and pomegranate - even a few ruins. From afar we heard a bell.....It's noon....soon many bells are pealing....in a pleasant discord....with echoes....and they gradually decline again to a single tone......Wish I could have recorded it!!! And on the way down, we heard the 1/2 hour chime!!! We did notice some uneasy riders, very serious, sitting straight hanging on to the pole for dear life. Girls wearing flip flops rode barefoot lest a shoe would fall off.

At the top - since we were on a tour - we only had 20 minutes or so to spend....A large stone plaza - tables set up on a terrace with awesome views and others sheltered under a canopied area. A small bar sold wine, beer, liquor, snacks and ice cream. A few groups brought picnic lunches from below and set themselves up to spend some time enjoying the day. A few dirt trails lead to spots that offer great Kodak moments, but make sure that you are wearing sturdy footwear.

 

Time to continue on...."Jerry" offers us the option for a "light lunch" - 14 Euros including tax and gratuities at a local restaurant. It consisted of a tomato/mozzerella salad (Caprese), a choice of pizza, pasta, pork or fried fish, house dessert and a choice of beer, wine, water or soda....We all accept. The restaurant was appealing, although it was inside dining on such a nice day. The food was quite good - better than expected and the dessert - a cream puff filled with lemon flavored whipped cream - limoncello no doubt - delicious. A fair price  - we sat as a group ,but the meal felt somewhat rushed.

We then re-board the minibus for the short trip down to Capri. The village at mid mountain that is mostly pedestrian. Here we are given a ticket to the funicular for our trip down to the port where we catch the ferry back to Sorrento. You can spend as long as you wish on your own wandering around Capri - but watch the clock, if you have to get back to the cruise ship. Jerry is the tour guide, but he only organizes the transfers - you are left on your own to explore. Capri is the real charm of this island....A piazzetta here again - outdoor cafes, many with water views, shops of all sizes, lovely restaurants, luxury hotels and charming narrow alleyways. I would love to spend a few days here.

Would I do this tour again?? More than likely not....the advantage on this busy Sunday, was no waiting in line to purchase a bus or funicular ticket  and having a seat on the mini bus instead of standing crowded on the public bus and Jerry was a character. Very funny and he gave us a few good hints - where to exchange money with no fee - when to ride the funicular so as not to wait in line - where the toilets were and the luncheon with wine was a good deal....but...I would recommend him if you are hesitant to venture out on your  own.

We could have done the same things on our own for 1/3 the price - we would have chosen to have lunch in Capri instead of Anacapri for more atmosphere. The tour sponsored by the ship was over $100 per person - It was a fun day.....

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