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Amsterdam, a Modern Day Babylon
By Nancy Norris
Mention a visit to Amsterdam
and for some it may conjure images of windmills, dykes and
tulips. Others may imagine a liberal "hippie haven" where
marijuana and prostitution are legal. Truth be told, neither
of these pictures are entirely accurate. I have made four
visits to Amsterdam in the last five years, and each time I
have found a new facet of this European gem to explore.
Amsterdam is an amazing pedestrian city awash with unique
architecture, a maze of tree-lined canals, narrow bridges,
cobblestone streets and spacious commons. Museums, outdoor
markets, antiquity stores, cozy bars, brown cafés, trendy
nightspots, brothels and historical monuments all share the
space within this compact city that feels more like a
village than a metropolitan capital.
On my first visit, I arrived
in Amsterdam very early in the morning and will never forget
the impression it left. The city was blanketed with a mist
that totally concealed the cityscape. As I walked the short
distance from the central train station to my hotel, the
mist slowly melted away, the reflection of the sun glistened
on the rooftops of old crooked houses and the treasures of
this city began to emerge. I could not wait to drop off my
luggage and begin my exploration. Everything in this city is
within such close proximity of each other that locals
usually bike or walk from place to place. So, armed with a
map and some rudimentary directions from the concierge, I
chose to join the populace on foot.
City View
My first stop was an
insightful visit to the Anne Frank House. Although this
stark hideaway that Anne Frank and her family shared in an
attempt to escape the Nazi terror left me emotionally
saddened, it remains an unforgettable experience that I
highly recommend. As I wandered along one of the canal
walkways deep in reflective thought, I happened upon a canal
cruise station.
Canal Cruise
While this is definitely a
“touristy” thing to do, I was, after-all, a tourist. For a
few Euros I was treated to a one hour cruise that provided
an excellent overview of the city. The Old Canal, the six
arch bridges, 17th century merchant houses,
mansions, churches and bell towers are just some of the
sights I saw along the way. It was also the first time I had
encountered an interesting architectural embellishment that
is commonplace in this part of the world: furniture hooks at
the top of the facades. Since the doors and stairwells of
the houses are so narrow, they are used to hoist furniture
in through the windows.
Amsterdam Architecture
After my cruise, I continued
my exploration of the city on foot to Dam Square and the
Royal Palace. Dam Square, in the center of the city, is
alive with activity day and night. Surrounded by outdoor
cafés and a web of alleys brimming with stores, the Royal
Palace is without a doubt the focal point of the square.
Although no longer used as a residence by the Dutch Royal
family, this 17th century palace is still used for official
functions and is open to the public.
The Royal Palace on Dam
Square
Other notable attractions
within the confines of the square are the obelisk-like
National Memorial statue, erected in memory of those who
lost their lives as members of the resistance during WWII,
Madame Tussaud's wax museum and the Nieuwe Kerk (New Church)
next to the Royal Palace. While the church is no longer used
for services, it does host antique fairs, art exhibitions
and organ concerts.
The National Memorial
With each visit I have
discovered new artistic and historical treasures. There are
two major museums to which art aficionados flock. The
Rijksmuseum contains the largest collection of Dutch
artists' works in the world, including Rembrandt, Vermeer
and Van Hals. "The Nightwatch" by Rembrandt is their prize
piece. The spacious Van Gogh Museum is dedicated to Van Gogh
and his contemporaries. There are other artistic venues that
are also worth exploring, such as the modern art on display
at the Stedelijk Museum and Rembrandt's House that has been
restored to its original 17th century state.
Whether one chooses to journey
through Amsterdam on foot or by bicycle over the 1200
bridges that span the 160 canals within the city limits, at
every turn there seems to be another distinctive Dutch treat
that is revealed.
Bikes and Canal
The city boasts over 50 unique
museums that attract millions of tourists yearly from the
Heineken Experience and Houseboat Museum to the Jewish
Historical and Amsterdam Historical Museums. Browse through
the Waterlooplein flea market, wander along the floating
flower market on the Singel Canal or go to a free luncheon
concert in the Concertgebouw in the Museumplein.
Clock Tower and Flower
Market
Amsterdam has many hidden
courtyards tucked in between houses, but one of the largest
and most remarkable is Begijnhof. A narrow arched passageway
leads to a peaceful garden sanctuary surrounded by old
houses. Once occupied by Béguine nuns, these homes are still
occupied by single ladies. And what seems befitting of this
oasis in the midst of the bustle of the city, in the center
of this ethereal courtyard sits a medieval church.
Begijnhof Courtyard
But, no Amsterdam adventure
would be complete without taking time to absorb the
freewheeling spirit of its vibrant inhabitants. The
residents of this multiracial melting pot are quite amiable
and since most speak English, spending time amidst the
locals at an outdoor café or smokehouse can be quite
delightful.
Outdoor Café
Yes, the infamous Red Light
District panders to sexual pleasures and represents the more
seedy side of life, but adults may find the party atmosphere
and limitless people-watching opportunities worth a visit.
Amsterdam is at its
intoxicating best in late spring as the tulip fields are in
full bloom or in the long, warm, sunny days of summer when
the city comes alive.
Flower Market in spring
Evening brings its own special
magic to add to the allure. As darkness descends on the
city, the bridges twinkle with tiny lights that cast a magic
glow on the canals below and the city captures you in its
spell.
Amsterdam at night
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