St. George's, Bermuda Port Review
Shore Excursion On-Your-Own
By Tom Ogg and Nancy Norris

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St. George's Moongate

 

Overview:

 

St George's, Bermuda

The Town of St. George is located on the eastern end of Bermuda, about 15 miles from Hamilton. This quaint town, with its old world charm, was Bermuda's original capital and is a wonderful port to explore. St. George's Parish is the site where the very first settlers from the Old World landed. In 1612, while trying to sail from England to the Jamestown settlement in the New World, a ship was separated from the rest of the fleet and ran aground near St. George's. These settlers immediately claimed Bermuda as a British territory and the British influence continues today.

In 2000, The Town of St. George and related fortifications were designated a World Heritage Site.

St. George's offers cruise passengers everything they could possibly want in a port, and everything is within easy walking distance of the ship. Narrow winding brick lanes offer up close views of 18^th and 19^th century houses and historic sites abound. Add great beaches, excellent shopping, wonderful restaurants and bars and nearby golf courses and St. George's is certain to please all visitors.

 

Cruise Port Location and Information:

 

 

Cruise Ship Docked in St. George's

Very few ships actually dock in St. George's anymore. The very narrow Town Cut channel between Gates Fort and Higgs Island coupled with unfavorable wind conditions make entering St. George's Harbor a difficult task for small and mid-size ships and an impossible task for today's larger ships. Ships less than 750 feet in length, that are able to maneuver the cut, dock at the berth at Penno's Wharf or Ordinance Island. From either berth, one can simply walk off the ship and be in the center of the Town of St. George. Occasionally, ships too large to dock in town will anchor in Murray's Anchorage near Fort St. Catherine and be tendered to Penno's Wharf (Note: the tender trip takes about an hour.)

If your ship does dock in St. George's, make sure to be on deck as you enter the harbor as it is likely you will be welcomed by the town crier regaled in full costume and hand bell

 

Exploring on Your Own:

 

The St. George's "Olde Towne Railway Tours"

 

St. George's begs to be explored on your own. In fact, I am not sure why anyone would choose to go on a ship's shore excursion here. While I am not normally fond of tourist trains, the Olde Towne Railway Tour in St. George's is a "Must Do". It not only takes you around town, but also into the various areas of St. George's for an awesome overview of the entire area. It is a great way to familiarize oneself with St. George's and to learn about its wonderful history.

Since most sites in St. George's are within easy walking distance of the ship dock, pick up a self-guided walking Tour map of the town at the Visitor's Service Bureau located in King's Square. If walking is not for you, to get around St. George's Parish and St. David's Island, for $2 you can pick-up St. George's mini-bus at King's Square which runs from 7:30 AM to midnight daily. If you decide to venture outside of St. George's Parish, you can pick up public transportation passes and tokens at the Visitor's Service Bureau as well. Numerous buses and a less frequent ferry service is the best way to travel from St. George's. (Refer to the Hamilton Review for more details on Bermuda's public transportation.) Taxis are also available (but very expensive)

 

Shopping Tips:

 

St. George's Shopping Street

 

While Hamilton is certainly the shopping Mecca in Bermuda, there are plenty of unique shops, boutiques and markets in St. George's to keep any shopper happy. A rather nice waterfront shopping and dining complex just off King’s Square, known as Somers Wharf has many nice boutiques.

 

Somers Wharf Shops

Shops in St. George do not have elaborate signage that is "in-your-face", but are much more subdued. You will find the shopping around King's Square and on the side streets that adjoin the main square.

 

Typical Shopping Street in St. George

While many of the shops are branches of stores found in Hamilton, look for boutiques selling local items made of Cedar Wood found in the area. Jewelry, linen, seashells, perfumes, Bermudian souvenirs, clothing and beach wear are all good buys in St. George. Also, look for Bermudian water color paintings and lithographs, as these colorful pieces of art simply shout "Bermuda".

Also, if you are lucky enough to be in St. George on a Tuesday during the summer you will be treated to a special evening. Starting at around 7pm, the streets adjoining the ship turn into an outdoor market with many vendors selling everything imaginable. Local crafts and collectibles are especially interesting and the food vendors offer many unique dishes that are decidedly Bermudian. There is music and fun for everyone on St. George Market Nights. (Note: While we enjoyed this event on our last visit – the present economy and the reality that less ships are calling on St. George have caused store owner's to question continuing this event next summer. Stay tuned.)

Port Highlights:

 

King's Square, St. George, Bermuda

 

Once you depart your ship, you will be delivered into the center of St. George. King's Square found about one block to the right is the epicenter of St. George and is the best place to start your exploration. Armed with the self-guided walking tour map picked up at the Visitor's Service Bureau in King's Square, discovering the treasures of the Town of St. George on your own is a highlight of anyone's visit to this port.

 

St. George's Towne Hall

 

The Towne Hall is located in the center of King's Square and is well worth a visit. There is a stockade in King's Square where you can stick your head and hands into it for pictures. King's Square also has a replica of a “ducking stool” which was used to dunk women accused of being nags and gossips. If you are lucky to be in town on Wednesday or Saturday at noon, you can witness the historical re-enactment of a public tribunal as a costumed shrew is found guilty and summarily dunked and guilty men and women are subjected to the public humiliation of being placed in the stocks and pillars.

 

Dunking Re-enacted

The Bermuda National Trust Museum, on the northwest corner of King’s Square, was the 17^th century home of governors during the British colonial days. It now tells the story of Bermuda’s role in the U.S. Civil War and worth a visit.  Interesting boutiques and restaurants have also taken up residence in other historical buildings surrounding King’s Square.

 

 

Ordinance Island

 

Make a point to cross the bridge to Ordnance Island. This is where the British stored their munitions for their ships. There are a number of old cannons and cannon balls to inspect.

Deliverence

While you are there be sure to visit the replica of the ship Deliverance. This is an exact replica of the ship that the stranded sailors built in1612 to sail from Bermuda to Jamestown. It really gives you a glimpse of what life was like on the sea back then.

St. Peter's Church

 

 

The Tucker House Museum

 

The Tucker House Museum is an interesting stop as it displays life as it was during the 18^th century. It showcases collections from the Tucker family, one of the most influential families of Bermuda during that time.

 

Beautiful Tobacco Bay

 

Of course, as is the case with all of Bermuda, the thing to do in St. George’s is to hit the beach, and the best beach by far is Tobacco Bay. It is a protected bay that offers snorkeling for all levels, swimming and sunbathing. Take the Duke of Kent Street north from the town center and you will see a sign that reads "Tobacco Bay", and it is an easy walk up the hill towards the bay.

 

Uncompleted Old Church

One of the sights along the way to Tobacco Bay is the remnants of the Unfinished Church that still stands. The ruins are one of the historic monuments that are part of St. George's World Heritage Site. Although fun to explore, it was closed to the public in December 2010 due to major structural damage. It remains closed until repairs are completed.

 

 

Tobacco Bay and Beach

Continue to the right of the Unfinished Church, up Government Hill and past the fairways of the golf course until you reach Tobacco Bay beach. The water in Tobacco Bay is crystal clear and abounds with sea life. Safe for even the most novice snorkelers, Tobacco Bay offers an unlimited array of tropical fish, corals and other sea life. The water is comfortable and the beach wonderful.

 

The Beach at Tobacco Bay

Be sure to take plenty of sunscreen and a towel and get ready to have a stellar beach day.

 

Tobacco Bay Bar and Concessions

There is a beach bar at Tobacco Bay that serves beer and other adult beverages along with a restaurant that serves local cuisine. If you don't have snorkeling gear with you, not to worry, as you can rent it here, along with lounge chairs and other beach items. There are also usually locals that will braid your hair if you would like.

 

St. Catherine Beach

 

If you want a little more seclusion at the beach, try continuing on to St. Catherine's Beach. Once you cross over to the open ocean you will see Fort Catherine in the distance. Fort St. Catherine Beach is a wide, white sand beach that never gets as crowded as Tobacco Bay. There are several areas where you can access the beach and all of them are wonderful.

 

Fort St. Catherine and Beach

 

Fort St. Catherine is also worth a visit if you get out to this end of St. George's Parish. The original fort dates back to 1612, but has been rebuilt a number of times with a major refurbishment just a couple of years ago.

 

Off the Beaten Path:

 

St. George and a Docked Ship

 

Exploring off the beaten path will reward you in St. George’s. While the town is small, surrounding hills will reward you with wonderful vistas of St. George’s, beaches and other sights unique to Bermuda.

 

St. David's Lighthouse

 

Overlooking the South Shore, St. David's Lighthouse on St. David's Island is a 131+ years old Bermuda Landmark. Made from Bermuda Stone, a type of limestone unique to Bermuda, this famous old lighthouse is well worth the visit, even if just to check out the awesome views from the balcony. Still a part of St. George's Parish, it is easy to get here taking Bus Route #6.

 

Crystal Cave

 

Although we suggested this as a port highlight in the Hamilton review, it is actually much more accessible from St. George's (if your ship docks here). It is appropriately named after the crystal clear water that fills the caves. Filled with illuminated stalagmites and stalactites that have formed over millions of years, it is a good tour to take for a break from the sun. If you do visit, make a point of stopping for a famed “Rum Swizzle” at the nearby Swizzle Inn in Bailey’s Bay.

 

Dining and Drinking Suggestions:

 

White Horse Pub and Restaurant

Just steps from the ship right on the King's Square resides Bermuda's oldest pub. Besides being around for centuries, the White Horse Pub and Restaurant is a ton of fun. For lunch go with the fish and chips. Their dinner menu is extensive with many uniquely Bermudian seafood dishes. The food is excellent! But, it is the bar that makes this a favorite for both visitors and locals alike. There is always something going on in the bar, which features entertainment and dancing Bermuda style. This is a great spot!

The Swizzle Inn

The Swizzle Inn is outside of town in neighboring Hamilton Parish, on the main route about halfway between the airport and the Town of St. George. However, a visit to this establishment is a “must do” at least once on a visit to Bermuda. This is the oldest pub on the island and is best known as home of the famed “Rum Swizzle”. It also serves some good pub food for lunch. The motto of this party spot is “Swizzle Inn, Swagger Out”. While you may not want to take the bus just for a stop at the Swizzle Inn, Crystal Caves and Swizzle Inn are both in Bailey’s Bay – so coincide your visit to hit both.

Must Do List:

Tobacco Bay

We would say that no visit to St. George's would be complete without a visit to Tobacco Bay for some sunbathing and snorkeling. Don't miss it!